What Even Is Assay? (And Why Should You Care)

AKA: The surprisingly spicy story behind that tiny hallmark on your silver ring.

Let’s set the scene. You’re holding a beautiful, weighty little ring, maybe it’s got a whisper of gold foil or a dreamy opal glinting in the light. You flip it over and there, on the inside band, is a teeny, tiny stamp. Mysterious. Official. Kinda regal-looking.

That’s the Assay hallmark. And no, it’s not just decorative. It’s kind of a big deal.

But let’s back up a sec…

So… what is Assay?

Image from the London Assay office https://www.assayofficelondon.co.uk

Assay is the fancy word for testing the metal content of your jewelry. Basically, it’s how we make absolutely sure your “sterling silver” piece is, well, actually sterling silver and not just pretending to be.

In the UK, if you’re selling silver, gold, platinum, or palladium above a certain weight (hello, 7.78g for silver), you legally need to send it to an Assay Office to be tested and marked. Yes, legally. It's not just for funsies.

And that little hallmark? It's proof that an official body has confirmed the metal content. Not me saying “trust me, babe,” but an ancient guild saying, “we’ve scientifically tested this, you're good.”

Is Assay just a British thing?

Kind of. Other countries have their own versions (often less regulated or optional), but the UK has one of the oldest and most robust hallmarking systems in the world. Like, we’ve had Assay Offices since the 1300s. That’s the Black Death era. Gross for history, excellent for precious metals.

There are only four official Assay Offices left in the UK: London, Birmingham, Sheffield, and Edinburgh. I send my pieces off to one of these little fortresses of metallurgical truth before they’re allowed to land in your hands.

Why should you care?

Image from the London Assay office https://www.assayofficelondon.co.uk

If you’re the kind of person who loves slow fashion, small makers, and things made with intention, this is one of those invisible layers of integrity. Hallmarking proves:

You’re not being scammed with cheap alloys or plated nonsense.
The maker isn’t cutting corners.
The metal content is exactly what you paid for.

Plus, it's traceable. Each hallmark includes my maker’s mark, the metal purity, and the year it was tested. It's like a tiny passport for your jewelry. (But make it sparkly.)

Does the Assay affect creation time?

Yes, babes. And this is where it gets real.

When I create a piece, I can’t just polish it up and send it in the mail. If it’s over the legal weight, I have to:

Finish the piece fully.
Pack it up and send it to the Assay Office.
Wait for it to be tested, stamped, and sent back.
Do any final adjustments (hello, resizing, or final cleaning).
Then post it to you.

This process can add 1–2 weeks, sometimes more, during busy seasons (they also experience Christmas rushes). So if you’re wondering why your necklace is taking a little longer, this is part of the magic behind it.

TL;DR: Assay = honesty, history, and high standards.

It’s not the sexiest part of jewelry-making, but it is one of the most powerful. It connects your ring or necklace to a lineage of craftsmanship that goes back centuries. It tells the world, “Yes, this piece is exactly what it says it is. And no, you can't fake it.”

So next time you see that tiny hallmark on the back of your jewelry? Give it a wink. It’s got your back.